Shoe



w. T. HORNE SHOEl Filed Dec. l5. 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Jan. 3,' 1928.

W. T. HORNE sHoE Fild Dec. l5, 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented 3, 1928.

PATE

NT OFFICE.

WILLIAM T. HORNE, OF QUEENS VILLAGE, LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK, VASSIGNOR TOHERMAN MILLER, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

SHOE.

,Application filed December 15, 1925. Serialx No. 75,544.

This invention relates to shoes and particularly to shoes havingflexible bottoms, such for example, as house or lounging shoes orslippers, and the object of the invention is the provision of a shoeofthis type of improved construction, and an improved method of makingsuch shoes.

In constructing shoes of this general type, considerable difficulty hasheretofore been experienced in securing the inner portion or lining ofthe shoe in position in such manner that it will remain in placepermanently. The sole of the lining, or sock lining, is usually separatefrom the upper portion of the lining and such sock'lining in a greatmajority of cases is worked loose by the motion of the foot in a.relatively short time. This loosened sock lining is many times rippedout and discarded by the user of the shoe because it tends to wrinkleand become extremely uncomfortable., Moreover, the

, upper portions of these linings of the prior or desirable.

art as commonly made do not conform to the shape of the outer portion ofthe shoe and are inadequately secured in position so thatthere is atendency for them to pucker or wrinkle, which seriously injures theappearance and sometimes the wearingproperties of the shoe,

ties.

The improved shoe of the present inventioncomprises an outer portionhaving a lining or inner portion which consists of a unitary structuresecured therein. .The lining is preferably secured in place by causingthe outer portion and the lining to adhere to one another throughoutsubstantially their entire contacting surfaces.

In constructing the outer portion of the shoe according to theinvention, material for the upper. of the shoe is first cut out in theappropriate shape, stitching together one or more pieces for thispurpose if necessary tributes greatlycto the comfort of a house orlounging shoe and, accordingly, a heel side piece for such flexiblehee-l is provided and may conveniently be stitched to the heel portionof the upper. The upper is then turned inside outv with the heel sidepiece projecting outwardly therefrom, and the periphery of the out-soleis stitched, partly to the periphery of the upper,y and partly to thepeupper to the normal or thus impairing its selling quali-` A flexibleresilient heel co`n heel portion taken on ,of the inserted pieces justmentioned are now conveniently sewed in place, preferably by an overhandstitch.

right-side-.outposition and the usual or customary lasting thereofcompletes the making o-f the outer portion of the shoe.

The inner portion or lining of the improved shoe is made, according tothe invention, from a; propriate material such as soft leather or satinand stretched upon a last or form of the size and Shape to which it isdesired to make the shoe. If desired to make a shoe which is stiffaround the heel -a counter is cemented to `this lining while on thelast. The entire exposed portion of the lining thus formed is thencovered with suitable adhesive material and the outer portion of theshoe is stretched over the lining portion while it remains on the last,and the' two portions of the Shoe are brought into intimate contact withIone another so as to cause them to adhere to each other securelythroughout substantially their entire contacting surfaces.

The invention'will be better understood by referring to the accompanyingdrawings which illustrate' by way of example an improved shoe made inaccordance with the invention, and the more important steps in theimprovedmethod of making the shoe. In these drawings:

Fig. l is alongitudinalsection taken centrally through the shoe ;l

Fig. 2 is a transverse section through the line 2 2 of Fig. l;

Figs. 3, 4 and 5 are separate perspective views respectively of theout-sole, the heel side piece, and the upper, prior to assembly;

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal/section illustrating the manner of assemblingthe parts shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 5;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view similar to Fig.

shoe,

6 but with the heel in-sole and in-sole lining in place;

Fig. 8 is a plan view showing the development of the side portion of thelining of the shoe; e

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the sole portion of the lining;

Fig. 10 is a longitudinal section of the lining members shown in Figs. 8and 9 assembled upon a last with the lining sole filler and heelstiffening piece or counter in position;

Fig of the heel stiening piece or counter;

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 10 showing the outer portion of theshoe applied over the lining while itl remains on the last;

Fig. 13 is a transverse section taken on line 13-13 of Fig. 10; and

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary section through the upper seam of the shoeshowing the intimate engagement between the outer portion of the shoeand the inner portion or lining, and also showing a modified form offinish for the upper seam.

Referring now to these drawings, `the shoe illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2comprises an outer portion, such for example as is illustrated inFig.'7, the shoe being shown inside-out in Fig. 7 or in other words withthe upper thereof turned down over the bottom, andL an inner portion orlining as illustrated in Figs. 10 or 12. The outer portion of the shoeconsists as usual of a lbottom and upper and in Figs. 1, 2 and 7 thebottom includes a flexible out-sole 2O of leather or of other suitablematerial, an out-sole lining 21 usually of soft felt, an in-sole 22 offelt, and an in-sole lining 23 of soft felt. These members areallstitched together throughout their peripheries` and stitched to theupper 24. These members each eX- tend from the toe but at they heelportion the heel side piece 25 is inserted between the upper andtheout-sole, and a thick heel 26 of hard felt is interposed between theout-sole lining, 21 and the in-sole 23.

The inner portion or lining of the shoe comprises an upper portion 27and a sole portion28 securely stitched together throughout their meetingedges thus` giving rigidity to the structure and forming in reality aseparatei shoe of self-sustaining form and of iiexible material. Thisinner portion or lining of the shoe and the outer portion are securedtgether `in proper relation as may be seen in Fig. 1 in a manner to behereinafter described. A. heel stitfening piece may be inserted betweenthe inner and outer portions of the shoe when it is desired to constructa shoe having a sti counter.

In constructing the outer portion of the two pieces of leather ofsuitable shape to form the toe portion 30 andthe heel por- 11 is a Viewshowing the development to the heel of the shoe,-

v rlhe rear margins tion 31 of the upper 24 are appropriately sewedtogether as shown in Fig. 5. The heel side piece 25 is `then stitchedeither to the heel portion 31, or to` the out-sole 20. Let us assumethat it is sewed to the heel portion 31 as shown in Fig. 5. The upper24, as illustrated in Fig. 5, is then turned inside out and the out-sole2O is sewed to the upper 24 and to the heel side piece 25 bythestitching 32 as shown in Fig. 6. In Fig. 6, therefore, the upper 24 isturned inside out and the heel side piece 25 projects'outwardl from theheel portion 31 of the upper 24.

uring the sewing together of these parts by the stitching 32 an out-solelining 33 of felt, cloth or other appropriate material may be includedif desired.

Referring now to Fig. 7 of the'accompanying drawings, the heel piece25-is here shown as having been reversed from the outward position whichit occupies in Fig. 6, and it now projects inwardly and lies next to theinner surface of the heel portion 31. lnasmuch as the heel side piece25is of a tapering or wedge shape as clearly seen in Fig. 4, thisoperation of turning it inwardly within the upper 24 which still reasseen in Fig. 7, andon top of this there is laid the in-so e lining 23.W'ith the several parts in this position the in-sole 23 is now sewed tothe upper 24 throughout its periphery, preferably by means of anoverhand stitch 35 and, inasmuch as the periphery of the upper has beencaused to lie flat, this overhand stitch can conveniently be made bymachine. i

The toe portion 30 and heel portion 31 of the upper 24 are now foldedupwardly from the position shown in Fig. `7 so asto turn the shoeright-side-out, and after pulling the shoe overa last in the ordinarymanner the outer portion of the shoe is ready for application to theinner portion or lining* configuration as shown in Figs. 8 and 9..

36 and 37 of the upper piece 27 are then sewed together, forming a rear,seam 38 (see Figs. 10 and 13) and the bottom or sole 28 of the liningis sewed to the upper piece 27 as, in Fig. 10. The unitary inner portionor lining thus constructed is now stretched over a last 39 also as shownin Fig. 10, and the leather being in a moist or damp condition as iscustomary, is thereby stretched to conform yto the shape of the last.

A filler 40 of felt or other appropriate material is now preferablycemented to the bottom 28 so as to bring the lower surface of the bottomof the lining even with the projecting peripheral edge 41 which resultsfrom the stitching of the bottom 28 to the upper piece 27. The purposeof making the bottom of the lining fiat and even in this manner is tofacilitate the securing of the lining to the outer portion of the shoevas will appear later.

If it is desired /to make a shoe having a stiff counter a heel stifeningpiece 42 is now cemented or vulcanized to the exterior surface of theheel ofl thelining as'shown in Fig. 10. This stilfening piece is firstprop- `erly skived so that it will not cause any abrupt change in theoutline of the exte riorsurface of the shoe, and i t is alsoappropriately notched as shown in Fig. 11 to facilitate the bendingthereof around the curved surfaces of the last.

- In assembling the shoe,. the innery portion or lining remainingstretched on the last 39, and having the filler 40, and if desired theheel stiffening piece' 42, in place as shown in Fig. 10, is covered overits entire exposed surface with an adhesive material such for example ascement or glue and the outer l ortion of the shoe which has beencompleted as described above, is now stretched over the inner portion orlining as may be seen in Fig. 12. This stretching operation brings theentire area of the interior surface of the outer portion of the shoeinto intimate contact with the outer area of the lining of the shoe,with the result that the lining is secured in place within the shoe asshown in Figs; 1 and 2. Moreover, this operation lalso brings the outerportion of the shoe into conformity with the shape of the last so thatthe lines of the shoe are regular and even.

After the outer portion has been thus applied to the lining of the shoewhi'le it remains on the last 39, the edge of the lining which projectsabove the edge of the outer portion of the shoe is the outer portion andthe two portions are stitched together along the finishing seam 43 as`seen in Fig. 1. The intimate relation etween the inner and outer partsof the shoe is shown in Figs. 1 and `2 and particularly in Fig. 14 wherethe heel portion 31 of the upper of the shoe is seen united to the upper27 of the lining by means of the layer of cement 44.

As shown in Fig. 1 and several of the other figures of the drawings, thetop edge of Jthe upper 24 of the outer portion is folded 1nwardly at thefinishing seam 43 to provide a smooth rounding edge. This method of mak-,inner contour of the trimmed off even withl counter being secured ingthe finishing seam is used particularly in making mens shoes. A modifiedform of finishing seam is illustrated in Fig. 14 which is used moreparticularly in the case ofwomens shoes. In this modification neither ofthe uppers are folded overvat the top edge but are cemented togetherflat and a strip of binding material 45 is folded over the cementededges and sewed in place by means of the stitcihng 46.

Although it is desirable that the adhesive material be applied onthebottom as well as on the sides of the exposed surface of the liningbefore the outer portion of the shoe is stretched over the lining on thelast 39, nevertheless` it is not/absolutely necessary that the cement beapplied to the bottom of the inner portion of the shoe since the bot`tom of the lining is securely held in place throughout the entireperlphery thereof through its attachment to the upper portion 27 of thelining. It is essential, however, that the upper portion 27 befirmlysecured to the outer portion of the shoe throughout 'substantiallytheir entire contactinv areas so that the bottom of the lining williefirmly held down, and so the lining will remain smooth and will lie inplace against the wlalls of the shoe without puckering or wrin- Themaking of shoes in accordance with the present invention has a number ofladvantages. The unitary 'lining Istructure is superior to theyinsertion of lining in separate portions because the unitary structure1s adapted to be more firmly and uniformly held in the desired positionwithin the shoe. The unitary linin thus making the llning in the sameway that the shoe proper is ordinarily made. The stretching of the outering upon the same last positively insures an en i may be made upon alastV portion over the 'linaccurate lit between the two portions of theshoe.

L claim 1. A slipper comprising an inner shoe'of and an' outer shoe, theouter shoe accurately' self-sustaining form,

conforming to the outer contour of the inner shoe, and the two shoesbeing secured to.

gether throughoutsubstantially their entire opposed surfaces.

2. A slipper comprising an inner shoe of self-sustaining form, an outershoe, the inner contour of the outer shoe accuratelyconf forming totheshoe, and inner and the two shoes and the together throughoutsubstantially their entire opposed surfaces.

3. .A slipper comprising an inner shoe con# outer shoes,

outer contour of the innerv a eounter interposed between the sisting ofan upper portion of appropriate' y form and a sole portion, the twobeing secured to one another along the lower margin of the upper portionand constituting an itself when unsupported, and an outer shoe, theinner contour of the outer shoe accuratef ly conforming to the outercontour of the inner shoe, the said inner shoe being inserted within theouter shoe and the two shoes secured together throughout substantiallythe entire opposed surfaces of the uppers of said shoes.

4. A slipper comprising an inner shoe consisting of an upper portion ofappropriate form and a' sole portion pre-shaped to a last and attachedthereto, the sole portion and the upper being secured to one anotheralong the lower margin of the upper portion and constituting an innershoe of sufficient rigidity to sustain itself when unsupported, and anouter shoe, the inner contour of the outer -shoe accurately conformingto the outer contour of the inner shoe and the inner shoe being withinthe outer shoe and the two shoes .secured together throughoutsubstantially the entire opposed surfaces of the uppers of said shoes.

'5. A slipper comprising an innerJ shoe consisting of an upper portionof appropriate form and a sole portion pre-shaped to a last and attachedto the upper portion, and constituting an inner shoe of sufficientrigidity to sustain itself when unsupported, and an outer. shoe, theinner contour of the outer shoeaccurately conforming to the outercontour of the inner shoe and the inner shoe being within the outer shoeand the two shoes secured together throughout substantia-ily the entireopposed surfaces of the uppers of said shoes.

6. A slipper comprising an inner shoe consisting of an upper portion ofappropriate form, and a sole portion pre-shaped to a last and attachedto the upper portion, an outer shoe, the interior o the outer shoeaccurately conforming to the outer contour of the inner shoe and acounter interposed between the inner and outer shoes, the pre-shapedsole portion and the upper of the inner shoe being of sufiicientrigidity to sustain it'seli:l when unsupported, the two shoes and thecounter being secured together by an `adhesive binder throughoutsubstantially the entire opposed surfaces of said shoes.

7. A slipper comprising an inner shoe of self-sustaining form consistingof an upper portion of, appropriate orm and a sole portion,-the inersides of the upper and sole portions being secured to one another alongthe lower margin ofthe upper portion, and an outer shoe, the innercontour of the outerl shoe conforming to the outer contour of the innershoe, the said inner shoe being inserted within the outer shoe and thetwo shoes secured together.

In testimony whereof I aix my signature.

WILLIAM T. HORNE.

